Yesterday we went to Akatsi, a few kilometres away, to shop in the market. Our tro- tro was once again waved through the police road block. We’re beginning to realise that our presence as passengers may prevent police searches. We are near the border and contraband is commonly found. Greasing of palms is quite open and apparently expected, so it’s clearly advisable to carry money.
The market was enormous, covering an area bigger than that of the town. Most of the stall-holders have very little to sell and their wares are collected into very small units. Fortunately for us price is used rather than weight. Any attempt to use the Ewe language is appreciated so much that we’re almost given the produce - a real incentive to develop our language. Prices are pretty consistent and fair so I still can’t bring myself to even attempt to bargain. Our V.S.O. trainer warned us that we’d feel this way! The central part of the market was occupied by scores of stalls selling charcoal. People evidently buy everything, even fuel, on a daily basis. One of the priests told us “no one starves in Ghana.” He was referring to the fact that the climate allows a supply of seasonal produce at all times, though quantities are not great. Nothing is wasted. We plan to start a garden when the rains come. Do we compost our waste or do the pigs continue to fatten?
We’re gradually developing a picture of what needs to be done here in relation to our teaching subject areas. English only becomes a core subject, for the National Vocational Qualification, next year. This means that present third years do not see it as a priority.(I have responsibility for this group). This is also reflected in the time-tabling as these students have less than three hours per week and classes are in the afternoon, when they are hot and tired. Next year, present second year students will not achieve their vocational qualification without passing in English and Maths. They are understandably anxious about this. At the moment there appears to be no clear written curriculum for English which can be adapted and the syllabus for the new Core English is not yet available. When it does materialise there will be the challenging task of writing year plans for each year. The exam board does offer staff training but it is very expensive and this school can’t afford it. Model exam papers will therefore not be available to us. Interesting times ahead!
Thursday 28th February
Well, “best laid plans” as they say. V.S.O. should have contacted us by now to run through the evacuation plan which is to be used in the event of an emergency in Ghana. Evidently such a plan has recently been activated in Kenya. At present there is, of course, no cause for anxiety but its good to know that someone, somewhere, is developing a contingency plan! The country has been remarkably stable in recent years but this will apparently be put to the test when elections are held in the autumn. Electioneering has begun on a small scale and this morning’s radio announced the start of “political education broadcasts.” Are these the same as party- political broadcasts? We’re intrigued as there are already local rumours about the character and life-style of candidates.
Once again the year three English class was cancelled, on this occasion for marching practice, in anticipation of the Independence Day celebrations on 9th March. Neither of us can claim any skills in this area so we watched as all students paraded in the afternoon sun. The event is clearly important to the people of Ghana and so we’ll attend and support the festivities. The Italian volunteers are divided on the issue. One, an ex- paratrooper, was clearly enjoying teaching how to “wheel” whilst another muttered about Mussolini returning! I gather that I may not have an English class next week for the same reason.
You may detect some frustration on my part. Exams follow the Bank Holiday and then there are reports to produce. It may prove impossible to teach, in any systematic way, until after Easter. I will have to bide my time and then choose a good moment to ask if the staff are aware of the job description I was given. This includes staff development, which may be news to them! Have just had sight of some of the exam papers which have numerous slips in their wording. Another decision to make which requires sensitivity.
Will be pleased when the rains begin. They’ve been predicted for a few days but, to date, not a drop has fallen. The donkeys are cross too, so I’m in good company.
A young student approached us and asked if she could clean for us. After checking with staff we find that this is fine. Three girls arrived on Saturday morning and they are now planning to sweep and mop the hallway and the bathroom on a weekly basis. They evidently used my soap powder for the floor and attacked it with such gusto that it looked like a giant bubble bath. Can’t quite get over my inhibitions about using students as cleaners but they asked nothing and appreciated our small offering.
Sunday2nd March
The weekend has been uneventful as I have my first dose of ‘the runs’ and thus have little energy. It’s been very pleasant, though, sitting in our porch area, knitting and reading. The knitting has caused much interest among the girls, so I’ve promised to find knitting wool and needles when we make our brief visit to Scotland in the summer. I did point out that there can’t be much use for sweaters in Ghana but they thought they might try skull caps. Does anyone have a simple pattern? My alternative would be to make little bags, though money, if you have any, is kept in a rolled cloth here.
If I eat today then we can take a walk to Abor and see a funeral. They are much recommended as the best type of parties. We are assured that we would be welcome! We have yet to sample palm wine! The coffins are ornate and decorated with symbols which indicate the job of the deceased. Many have images of wheels, indicating a driver. Road traffic accidents are very common! We feel that we’ve already been initiated into funerals as ‘special drumming’ has been heard most evenings this week. Dave plans to begin lessons after the exams
Our second batch of post arrived yesterday and consisted of yet more communications from the Inland Revenue (absent landlord forms), a delayed and poorly printed copy of the Guardian Weekly and a post card from Lisbon. Thanks, Jill and Don. The local garden boy hung around for a while. We must check whether we tip him, the letters are produced with quite a flourish.
3rd, 4th &5th March
Some progress has been made. I now appear to have some more classes although to date no one has shadowed me. VSO will not be happy with this as the sustainable element is supposed to be that we’re cascading our methods, awareness etc to others in the team. Again, perhaps we’ll have to be more patient.
Today we visited St. Agnes the sister centre to St Theresa, managed by a different principal but the same Director. This is on the edge of Abor and has 46 female students between 15 and 25 taking courses in Dressmaking, Catering and Childcare. There is a dedicated room with 12 ageing computers and a couple of brand new machines still in boxes. Everything was gathering dust because as soon as they train a suitable individual they leave to take up more lucrative employment in a larger town or abroad. Of course we’ve heard of the “brain drain” from developing countries but never experienced such a graphic example. What is the solution? The frustrated young Principal desperately wants to use his resources but appropriate candidates are few and unlikely to stay. The present strategy is to cultivate appreciative ex-students who are local with family ties. Both centres are reliant on this method of recruitment and the generosity of ex-students funding new ventures. Abor seems to have a proliferation of faith and state schools all chasing and occasionally competing for limited funds. We can’t help but think that economies of scale might be useful but some of these establishments are dependent on close relationships which would be difficult to transfer to larger institutions.
We plan to visit Accra this weekend to post this entry on the blog and check e-mails.
Our diet is becoming a little monotonous so we’ll allow ourselves a few treats. There is a limit to how often you can eat pilchard pasta and corned beef hash. We are trying to eat as much local, seasonal food as possible but it’s often labour intensive to cook and we have neither the time nor the energy. Our resolve gave way tonight and we guiltily ate the packet of olives saved for Dave’s birthday.
This evening we took a different walk through the cassava plantations, along sandy paths, marked only by bare feet footprints and cycle tracks. The scrubland is peppered with termite nests which look like rusty Christmas trees and for some reason are a source of real fascination for Dave. Expect lots of pics..! There are more communities than we’d appreciated, dotted around in the bush. We bumped into two of the staff from the centre who said, yet again, that the rains are due. Neither of them have electricity in their homes. A toddler was carrying a hurricane lamp so some change in the weather must be imminent. All the children ask for toffees and some search your pockets! A large bird of prey was hovering overhead, evidently searching for stray chicks for supper so we walked briskly back.
Thursday 6th March(Independence Day)
We walked, together with those who were able, the 3k to the town recreation area, where we were entertained by the march past of all the schools in the area. Our centre came last and certainly not least. In scorching heat they did their level best to win the trophy. For obvious reasons the technique was lacking but the effort certainly wasn’t. For confirmed pacifists who hate any militaristic displays we did an awful lot of clapping. The town “mad man “, who attempted to streak, was removed by a very large policeman. There was even a march by the women street vendors, with piles of eggs, bananas and pineapples loaded on their heads. Great fun! Once the youngsters in wheelchairs were safely on their way home, the workers met at the local “spot” and a good time was had by all. I was bought a large bottle of milk stout. Shades of Minnie Caldwell? Walked back with usual train of children streaming behind and all in party mood. This was followed, back at St.Theresa’s by a lively football match between education and health personnel. Where do they get the energy? Dave was asked by another youth, optimistically christened Wisdom, if he’ll organise “trots”. We assume this is a further customer for the fledgling running club.
Well 7am. start for Accra tomorrow so we’ll have an early night. Its allowed here, though we seem to be flagging earlier than most!
Sorry, Snowy, that we missed your birthday. Was it a big one, or is that next year? Apologies to anyone else feeling neglected!